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TERRESTRIAL
Introduction
The Sultanate of Oman lies at the eastern extremity of the Arabian Peninsula,
between the Republic of Yemen in the south, the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia and the
United Arab Emirates to the west. To the north, the Governorate of Musandam,
overlooking the Strait of Hormuz, is separated from the remainder of Oman by
some 95 km of United Arab Emirates territory. The Tropic of Cancer passes
through Oman just south of the capital, Muscat. The total land area is 309,500
sq km, with a coastline of 1,700 km.
Geology and Topography
The north of Oman is dominated by the Hajar Range, a chain of rugged limestone
and dolomite mountains, stretching from Musandam to Sur and rising to just over
3,000m at the highest point of the Jebel al Akhdhar. They are flanked by
lower mountains of ophiolite, an igneous rock originating from upheavals of
oceanic crust. Along the north-east of the range is the alluvial plain of the Batinah region, whilst to the west and south gravel plains stretch to the
southern governorate of Dhofar. These plains cover some 80% of the surface of
Oman and border the Arabian Sea. In the west the extensive sand dunes of the
Rub' al Khali stretch beyond the border with Saudi Arabia. The separate
Sharqiyah Sands, covering some 9,300 sq km, lie to the east, near the southern
extemity of the Hajar range. In the Governorate of Dhofar the gravel plains rise
southwards to the escarpment of the Dhofar mountains, reaching 1,800 m and
comprising mainly tertiary rocks, including calcareous shale, limestone, and
massive gypsum.
Climate
With the exception of the mountain regions, the climate is hot and dry, with
annual rainfall less than 100 mm. The Hajar range attracts higher but sporadic
rainfall, more often in the winter months, but also from occasional
thunderstorms in the summer. The climate of Dhofar is dominated by the
south-west monsoon, which brings dense mists and some rain to the escarpment and
the Salalah plain during the months of July, August and September, resulting in
a belt of grass and woodland in the mountain region, densest on the steep slopes
facing south to the Arabian Sea. The remainder of the country is arid with
sporadic winter rain and occasional thunderstorms in the summer. Rainfall is
higher in the Hajar range, bringing more vegetation, though limited by lack of
soil in the rugged terrain. Fog moisture, especially in the spring and autumn,
benefits the vegetation of the central plains of the Jiddat al Harasis. The mean
annual rainfall over most of the country is less than 100 mm.
Vegetation
The flora of the Sultanate reflects the influence of that of Iran in the
north, with an increasing influence of African species from the Eastern Hajar
mountains southwards to Dhofar. Of approximately 1,200 species found in Oman,
some 87 are endemic or near-endemic – occurring only in Oman or shared with its
immediate neighbours and nowhere else in the world. Of these, 75 are endemic to
Dhofar, mainly found in the mountains within the monsoon belt.
Mammals
Some 86 mammal species or sub-species occur in Oman. Of the regionally endemic
large mammals, the Arabian tahr - Wa'al al Arabi (Hemitragus jayakari),
classified as Endangered, occurs only in the northern mountains including those
of the UAE. The Critically Endangered Arabian leopard (Panthera pardus nimr), a
regionally endemic subspecies, occurs in the Dhofar mountains.
Birds
Over 480 species have been recorded in Oman, the majority being migrants
travelling seasonally between northern Asia some as far north as the Arctic, and
Africa. Around 100 species are breeding residents.
Other Terrestrial Fauna
Many species of reptiles, arthropods, amphibians, insects and lower order
fauna occur throughout Oman. A visit to the Oman Natural History Museum at the
Ministry of Heritage and Culture is strongly recommended for a closer look at
the full range of Oman's biological diversity.
The Landscape
Oman's natural and cultural landscapes are famous for their astonishing
beauty, from dramatic high peaks and canyons, ancient oasis settlements with
their traditional forts and houses, dense monsoon forests, barren gravel
wildernesses, sand seas furrowed by high dunes, to coastal cliffs and fiords. To
geologists they tell the story of millions of years of Oman's history because,
unlike temperate countries where rock formations are mostly covered by soil and
vegetation, the geology of Oman is visible for all to see. In today's crowded
industrial world, wildernesses have a special appeal to the international
tourist, many of whom wish to go to places where they will not be among crowds
of other tourists: Oman is able to offer this experience as well as the more
conventional types of holiday.
The landscape is the foundation of responsible tourism, a sustainable way to
support the economy of rural areas, through employment. It contains all Oman's
terrestrial species, so care of the landscape helps to protect what is within
it. Aside from tourism, a beautiful landscape sustains the quality of life for
all those who live and work within it, encouraging their sense of ownership and
pride.
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MARINE
Introduction
The seas of the Sultanate of Oman occupy an isolated corner of the Indian
Ocean, where some of the world’s most varied and biologically productive waters
are found. In the Gulf of Oman and Arabian Sea, vast open-ocean plains, canyons
and trenches of extreme depth abruptly meet the coastline forming underwater
cliffs several kilometers high. This contrasts with the gently sloping
continental shelf of the Arabian Gulf and northern Gulf of Oman and has resulted
in a great diversity of marine habitats.
Most of Oman’s waters lie within the tropics, but they nevertheless exhibit
among the greatest seasonal variability found in any of the world’s oceans. The
two main climatic influences are the winter and summer monsoons. The winter
monsoon is characterized by a relatively gentle and variable, dry northeast
wind, known locally as ‘Shamal’. This wind occurs between November and April,
leading to modest increases in productivity and a current that flows to the
southwest. The vigorous summer monsoon, or ‘Kharif’, forcefully reverses this
circulation pattern and has a dramatic effect on the Sultanate’s seas. Cold,
nutrient-rich waters well up in the Arabian Sea, and once at the surface,
sunlight triggers phytoplankton blooms that persist for three or four months of
the year and fuel the region’s primary productivity.
Musandam Region
The ragged coastline of the Musandam region, includes spectacular cliffs that
plunge into the sea along fjiord-like inlets and promontories that characterize
the region’s coast. The shelter afforded by the many khayran, harbour some of
the most well-developed corals reefs in the country, whilst the cliffs
themselves provide a roosting place for seabirds. Offshore, the seabed slopes
gently southwards into the Gulf of Oman.
Al Batinah
The low-energy shoreline of the Batinah region in the Gulf of Oman, extends
seaward as a wide continental shelf, that is generally desert-like and
relatively featureless. A string of islands breaks the monotony; Oman’s only
marine protected area, the Daymaniyat Islands Nature Reserve. Coral reefs thrive
in clear waters and support a fantastic range of associated reef life, from sea
anemones to whale sharks. The islands are also home to internationally important
nesting seabirds and the critically endangered hawksbill turtle.
Muscat Region
The long-sweeping beach of the Batinah gives way to the rocky shores of Muscat,
studded with coral reefs along a shoreline carved from limestone. Once used by
ancient seafarers, the many bays, inlets and coves continue to shelter fishermen
and attract tourists with their scenic splendour and promise of diverse and
exciting marine life. Dolphins and whales are frequently seen in offshore waters
that rapidly descend to depths of over 3,000 metres.
Ash-Sharqiyah
Rocky coastline extends southwards throughout much of the Sharqiyah region,
reaching the easternmost tip of Arabia at the famous beaches of Ras al Hadd.
Green turtles nest here throughout the year in numbers that probably exceed
those of any other turtle rookery in the Indian Ocean. The Wahiba Sands meet the
shoreline south of Ras al Hadd, separating it from Oman’s other major turtle
nesting site; the island of Masirah. All four of Oman’s nesting turtles find
space to nest here, but the majority are loggerhead turtles. As many as 30,000
females have been estimated to congregate here to nest between the months of
March and August, forming possibly the largest nesting population in the world.
Al Wusta
Intense productivity in the waters of the Al Wusta region make the generally
shallow seas here almost permanently green in colour. The vast swarms of
phytoplankton attract a wealth of fish life, many of which apparently spawn
here. Coastal whales, such as humpback and Bryde’s whales are attracted to this
area and seabirds feed in their thousands. Onshore, still more birds, possibly
over a million each year, dot the white sandy beaches and salt flats or wade in
the shallows at Barr al Hikman, many of them passing through on migration. Barr
al Hikman is also special for another reason. A coral reef, perhaps thirty
square kilometers in extent, lies in shallow waters off the south coast of the
area and is uniquely made from a single coral species, the Oman cabbage coral.
Dhofar
Dhofar’s spectacular coasts and seas differ markedly from those further
north in the country. Like Musandam, cliff’s plummet into the sea from coastal
escarpments, whilst elsewhere khayran and sweeping beaches are reminiscent of
Batinah or Muscat shorelines. However, it is here that the ‘Kharif’ is centred,
turning both the shores and the seas green as it fuels prolific primary
productivity.
The kharif begins in May, when southwesterly winds race across the Arabian Sea,
driving surface waters seaward. Cold, nutrient-rich waters well up and over the
cliff edges, spawning a tremendous abundance of marine life. Kelp-like algae
flourish and form acres of swaying fields of seaweed, growing side-by-side with
corals; a phenomenon that can only be witnessed in this part of the world. Fish
life is spectacularly abundant, attracting large marine predators, like sharks,
dolphins and whales in high numbers. In undisturbed offshore areas, such as at
the Halaaniyat Islands, pods of sperm whales may number over 50 individuals,
whilst Arabian long-beaked common dolphins can school in their thousands.
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Diver checking the reef, Musandam |
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Terraced fields, Al Ayn, Sayq Plateau, Al Jabal al Akhdar |
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